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two nights ago, i left the internet cafe around midnight. as i walked out, i heard the music of the bar across the path with the bass up, everyone singing, drinking, and socializing. i walked by with my head down as i tried not to get sucked in. the island is full of backpackers and long-time travellers, most of whom are very friendly and don't hesitate to extend conversation. avoiding their gazes, i continued walking. the cafe is a little less than half a mile from my room, so it's not too far and i don't mind the hike alone. the island is too busy for anything to happen.
as i walked by seashell resort, i watch a lone guy nearly break his ankle walking down the two steps that lead to the bungalows. again, i avoid his gaze, but i'm the only one around, and he asks me "do... doooo... do you have acc, accomodation?"
wait. do i look asian? do i look like i'm asian, and do i look like i'm working right now? at midnight.
"umm, im not the person to ask for accomodation."
ko tao is a very small island and it isn't uncommon that tourists can't find a room. want to start a business? open a resort here. there aren't enough rooms for the amount of visitors. so i assumed he came on the late boat and couldn't find a place to stay.
drunk and with no shame, he says "my room stinks."
okay then.
"my room stinks. it smells so bad."
(i gotta go?)
"my roommates both have food poisoning and it stinks and i don't want to sleep there."
i'm not sure if i laughed at the situation or his inability to spit the words out. "well. i know of a hammock you can sleep in. it's outside one of the restaurants."
so he follows me. as we're walking, i go through the typical backpacker ritual... how long have you been here, how long are you staying, where were you before this, where are you going afterwards... so i ask him if he's on vacation from school or work.
"you're american."
funny how one little word can give so much away.
he corrects me. "i'm on holiday from school."
i ask him where he's from, knowing he isn't american. no one is. we are the country that doesn't travel that can afford to. alex and i have slowly learned this. in three weeks we've met one other duo that was american. it explains why in the crowds of white people on ko tao, we're still hated and loved the most. american backpackers are rare. far and few between, we don't stay long when we're around.
quickly, he accepts my unspoken apology for being american and inappropriately using the word "vacation." this isn't unusual though. around the english and australians, and he's australian, i constantly feel judged. i dont care too much, but they always seem to care for me.
"you have a good head," he tells me. i didn't understand what he meant the first, second, or thirtieth time he told me this on our walk back either. i can't help but laugh at the ridiculous glowsticks on his wrist that i'm sure are from the bar where he got the sanghi beer he's still drinking. we arrived at the bar with the hammock, but the owner is still oustide, so i continue walking and don't say anything. australia continues on , telling me about his school, his major, his mate's major, his mate's mate's major, his mate's food poisoning, yadda yadda yadda. he takes a puff of his cigarette. "i dont even smoke."
this kid is crazy. or maybe just drunk.
"you don't smoke do you? no, you have a good head."
"yeah, and my good head is telling me you're about to get run over by the moto that this thai is driving." i pull him out of the way because he's obviously too obliterated to realize what's going on. we continue walking. fearing that i wont be able to lose him, i point him towards a bar, tell him there's a good drink special going on, and bolt towards my bungalow.
lesson 1. don't drink without a safety net to catch you.
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this sweetheart joined us for breakfast the other day. we were sitting on the beach prior to a day filled with nothing. she came from the pathway, walked up to our table, and, without acknowledging us, she laid down on our feet and sat with us the entire meal.
considering strays are generally very unwelcomed in thailand, i appreciate the island's support of dogs without homes. they are often fed by tourists or hostel and hotel workers, given head scratches regularly and play together in the ocean while pouncing for fish.
we enjoyed her company. :)
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alex and i decided to rent rafts to tan today. we thought floating around the ocean would be the ideal tanning experience: sun reflecting off the water = faster tan and no mosquitos = happier legs. for 1$ for the day, it was worth it. we started on our backs, then realized that to get a good tan, we'd obviously have to flip. i allowed alex to demonstrate:
"watch, i'll do this like a pro!"
she tried to flip without readjusting her top that had been untied. next thing i know, both of her legs are up in the air and i've got the no-dignity-left view of alex. she lands in the water on top of the coral with no upper bikini left on.
i almost pissed my raft.
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karma's a bitch guys. your snow might ice my pina colada well, but alex and i are a bit burnt.
i'm over the pain though. it'll turn into tan anyway.
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Y rae. racho. d.
